Steven Bell used to be a whisky guy, the Northern Irishman tells me sitting in his Southampton living room. I received an invite to do a sampling of a Bruce County-based, Panamanian bred, single origin, 5-year bourbon barrel-aged black molasses rum – and could barely contain my glee as a long-time rum drinker. The idea of a solo guided tasting, courtesy of one of the partners of a “local” product HQ’d here in Bruce County, a region known for its love of lager beer and rye, is a tantalizing one. But there was a catch: if we were going to get together on this particular Saturday, I had to agree to watch Ireland face off against England in Six Nations Rugby action. Twist my arm, bud.
If you’re not familiar with the Rum Rats, you will be. Soon. The fledgling brand is turning heads in the world of craft spirits, thanks in part to the prestige of its legendary makers.
Entering a partnership with The Pilsa Rum Distillery, presided over by rum blenders and industry icons, ‘Don Pancho’ Fernandez and Carlos Esquivel, the Rum Rats dedication to minimal intervention takes full advantage of Don Pancho’s experience, built over the span of five decades. No sugar added. No additives. Tropically aged for no less than five years. Imported in wood and poured straight from barrel to bottle in Vaughan’s Last Straw Distillery. Cien por cento puro.
As a relative newcomer to the world of craft spirits, the Rum Rats as a concept is the brainchild of founding partners, Shamus Hewitt and Jason Gardner, and born from a mutual appreciation for beach living, tasty waves, and good times in their adopted homes in Latin America. Steve and his wife, Elsa, came on board as partners after sampling the product at a post-COVID19 pool party in Kincardine. Shamus met Steve here and targeted him directly as a whisky drinker who didn’t love rum.
“it’s not faceless – you’re dealing directly with one of the four of us… That’s just what you do here in Bruce County. People are very welcoming, very hospitable… and open to supporting one another.”
“I was reluctant to go [to the party] and kept putting it off, what with having a family and all – people were still quite nervous. I decided to go after years of missing my friends… I could have one [rum] but didn’t like the feeling of waking up in a wheelie-bin, but my grandfather always used to say ‘what’s meant for you won’t go by you.’”
Steve brings the bottles out. Their flagship Arco Seco offering, or Dry Arch en español, pays homage to the region in southern Panama where the Rum Rats product is exclusively grown, fermented, distilled, and aged. Located on a unique arching peninsula, the area is renowned for its weather, where dry, cool Pacific air meets the heat of the Caribbean, creating the perfect climate for a unique style of sugarcane production and a rum-aging tradition that has remained largely undiscovered by North American audiences. Then, the big boy – a special Cask Strength limited edition that puffs out its chest at a whopping 65% alcohol.
When you’re building a brand, the look and feel is inevitably important – and it’s clear the Rum Rats are keen to put on a branding masterclass. Festooned with colourful, bold, Latin-inspired illustrations steeped in a distinctive Panamanian nod to classic Americana, the product definitely draws the eye and the bottle is something you’ll be proud to keep on your shelf. Their merch portal is chock-full of great looking clothing that complements the lifestyle they sell. Check. Next, the taste. You can look the part all you want, but when it comes to squaring off with a glass, it had better deliver. A tote bin of rum accoutrements emerges: molasses, raw cocoa, snifters, toothpicks – it’s clear we’re not going to crush a few Bacardi & Diets’ today.
“When I talk about it being non-chill filtered and the oils [from the molasses] being in it – when it heats up in your mouth it layers the flavour, whereas a grain spirit strips the flavour from your palette. That’s where the harshness comes from and what gets you in the jowls. But this…” says Steven, spinning a golden dram of rum at eye level, “you’re picking up so much more because you’re using your whole olfactory system.”
He dips a toothpick in black sugarcane molasses, tells me to warm it up and coat my mouth with it, then take another swig. The flavour profile coming from the glass blows my mind – it’s a completely different rum. Next, a whiff of cocoa from an air-sealed jar – same effect: the rum takes on different flavour characteristics when challenging the body’s sensory system and sending it into overdrive, elevating different notes and evolving in real time. It’s smooth, clean, with subtle hints of butterscotch and cinnamon. What’s perhaps most notable is that it’s not a rum that immediately punches you in the face and beckons you to bring out your best pirate impression. Its light straw colour and oak spice has you studying it as you drink it. There’s a delicate citrus zest on the nose, and a mild, welcome burn as it goes down.
But it’s not all high-brow tasting etiquette or sipping it neat. This is a group that appreciates the laid-back lifestyle of the sun and surf, after all. This rum mixes exceptionally well, and makes for an approachable, upscale cocktail on the patio, the deck, or the beach chair.
“I know it’s a bit of a sacrilege, but Outlaw Brew Co in town here makes their own root beer, and my neighbour, who’s a through-and-through rum guy, came over on a scorching hot August day. We did a tasting, then decided to have a splash with root beer and it was an absolute match made in heaven,” says Steven.
The team also takes a ton of pride in curating a Rum Rats-focused menu of cocktails on their website, geared for prime enjoyment. Belly of the Shark features pineapple juice, cinnamon, bitters, and a spritz of absinthe for all you thrill-seekers. Meanwhile, the AristocRat is their take on a classic Manhattan. The Rumbler is a reimagined rum and coke, accented by a dash of bitters, lime, and a cane-based cola, like Jarritos, Jones Cane Sugar Cola, or Pepsi Real Sugar. Delightful, can confirm.
“Whenever I introduce this to people, you can tell they’re skeptical but have the intention of being nice – and they’re surprised by the genuine quality and flavour of the rum,” says Steve. “And surprisingly, we’re really popular with women who never drink spirits neat.”
Fresh off a stint at the T.O. Food & Drink Fest, the Rum Rats came home poised for a successful summer. What they’re learning is younger folks drink less of their purchase at once.
“When it comes to Gen X, Y, Z and the Millennials, they care about what they’re buying,” says Steve. They’re the lowest consumer by capita for alcohol, but they spend the most. We’re finding millennials are latching onto this because it’s not faceless – you’re dealing directly with one of the four of us… That’s just what you do here in Bruce County. People are very welcoming, very hospitable, and open to supporting one another. It feels a bit like Disney Land compared to where I grew up in Northern Ireland during the Troubles.”
Lucky for us locals, we can sample The Rum Rats at a number of Bruce County watering holes and festivals including the Kincardine Scottish Festival, Bruce Steakhouse, The Wismer House, Walker House, The Beach Motel, and The Dunes (it’s your turn to share the love, Grey and Simcoe!) Actively looking to bring a taste of the Panamanian coast back home to Grey Bruce and the rest of Ontario, you can order yourself a bottle direct to your door by visiting therumrats.com or you can get in touch with this crackerjack team of aficionados via Instagram @therumrats
As ‘the best rum you haven’t tried yet,’ I left convinced this is a spirit that’s going to steal away a few more whisky diehards. Its dedication to quality is second only to its dedication to enjoying the good life.
Expect big things from this exciting local brand.
