I grew up a short drive from Sauble Beach, so memories of the (once sleepy) beach town are plentiful. I’ve spent many summer days walking the strip with vinegar-drenched fries in one hand, a volleyball in the other, hoping to soak up as much summer break as I could. My recollections as a kid with little responsibility and lots of free time still bring a smile to my face.
When I came back to this area as an adult with more responsibility and less free time, I realized my beach days would be more selective. I also realized that Sauble was not so sleepy anymore – like the Bruce Peninsula, it had been ‘found.’ Just as I had changed over the years, so had it. The arcade was gone, the Knights Inn had closed, and the amusement park was no longer. But there plenty of new businesses that brought fresh energy, and some that still remained from my youth.
Part of being selective in my Sauble visits, came down to the season itself. Don’t get me wrong, I love a hot July nap in the sun, but after being convinced by some friends to give Great Lake surfing a try, I found myself making time in the autumn months for Sauble.
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By October, the summer cottagers have all gone home, the tourists are no longer around, and the businesses have all shuttered for the season. Except for one. There has always been one trusty destination that could be relied upon to warm-up and chow-down post-surf. The Dunes has not only the perfect vibe for us kooks, it’s also been the only restaurant open in October!
Yes, there are many of us grateful locals who have loved having something open year-round in Sauble. There’s no getting around it: The Dunes is an institution on Lake Huron. If you grew up around here, you’ve likely got a memory of time spent there just as I have.
And now it’s got a whole new injection of good vibes as its tradition carries forward with new owners. The folks behind Amabel Hospitality Group have taken over this iconic spot and are making it the place to gather for good times and great food.
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If you don’t know the Amabel Hospitality collective, you most certainly know their spots, which include Heydays at The June Motel, Bartiki Sauble Beach, Saugeen Golf Club, and The Dunes. Evan and Emma Baulch are the couple behind this community-focused business, and Chef Tyler Cunningham is a recent addition to the team, who brings a wealth of experience back to Grey Bruce after two decades in Toronto working in prestigious restaurants like the Windsor Arms Hotel and Mildred’s Temple Kitchen, as well as private service at Martin Short’s summer home before eventually opening and operating his award-winning restaurant, Whippoorwill in Toronto.
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Since returning to Grey Bruce, Tyler has been cultivating relationships with local purveyors and farmers, most notably as a chef at Mudtown Station and Heydays, before joining The Dunes. For example, he often sources from producers such as Howell’s Fish in Wiarton and Moore’s Meats in Chatsworth. At the core, his cooking is simple: high quality local ingredients are at the forefront, thoughtfully prepared and expertly executed with a focus on whole foods and wellness. Chef Tyler, in his new role as Executive Chef, now oversees the culinary direction at all Amabel locations with a focus on quality in every plate.
And he’s using this philosophy to bring a whole new vision to The Dunes menu.
“I have this fantasy,” he says. “You know the classic Bruce County menu where there’s liver and onions, hot beef, hot chicken sandwiches, fish and chips? We’ve basically made that menu and reads the same as all the others, but my vision is that when you order that dish, the picture you see in your head is exactly what you receive. I wanted to inject a new life into that menu and have it prepared with quality ingredients and little bit of love. Have people understand the value they truly deserve in this area.”
Part of that value is pairing a classic Bruce County menu with the live tunes from local musicians. They have an impressive monthly schedule that includes the likes of Marshall Veroni, Amber May, Rob Elder, and Pick Up Game.
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The Amabel team likes to think of The Dunes as a place for people to make memories, a spot for people to feel is their own. And it’s easy to make memories in a place that really cares about the community it’s a part of – it feels more authentic. The musicians are local, the food is locally sourced, and the owners are too. Evan and Emma built their family home in Red Bay and Chef Tyler lives in Owen Sound.
“Our core business in all of our places is actually built around locals,” Evan says, acknowledging that the summer tourism in Sauble is vital, as well. “When Heydays opened, we had nine picnic tables in the front parking lot, and those first tables of local people who came in are still the people who come every week.”
These same customers are now visiting them at The Dunes. They appreciate the vibe that the Amabel team are injecting into all their spots. When it comes down to it, Sauble is a place for making memories, and that’s what Evan, Emma, and Tyler are offering.
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The Amabel members are not exactly newbies to restaurant game. Along with the experience Chef Tyler brings, Evan is no lightweight either. Prior to moving here 4 years ago, he worked with Oliver & Bonacini in Toronto and Collingwood for ten years, overseeing a multitude of restaurants.
But it’s his Sauble Cottage of thirty-five years that ties him to this area and coaxed him here to live full time after he negotiated the creation of Heydays with June Motel.
And that’s when he met Chef Tyler.
“It’s really difficult to find good people to work with,” says Tyler. “So when I met these guys, Evan specifically, I just knew that he was motivated and professional and had great experience – I knew it was a great match and that we were going to take things into a new direction. I’ve been looking for someone like this my entire career.”
It’s clear from chatting with the Amabel crew that they have a shared vision for Sauble – one that revolves around good people gathering, value for money, and their love for Bruce County.
“I see Sauble continuing to grow,” says Evan. “I see people getting more excited to spend time up on the Bruce. It’s literally, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful areas of Canada by miles. That’s why we all live here.”
If you’re reading this, you likely enjoy living here for the same reason. And if you don’t live here, then you’re visiting for that reason. But regardless if you call here home or come for a holiday, this cultural passage we call Bruce County is undeniably stunning.
“I love Sauble Beach,” says Evan. “I fully believe in this town and I see the offerings continuing to change and elevate.”
As Sauble continues its evolution from the sleepy beach town of my youth, to a busy tourist destination, I’m glad that the expansion is happening from a place of love – both for the local beauty and homegrown charm.
“When you do something really well in Sauble Beach, it becomes a landmark in your mind…we want to create that” says Evan proudly.
“We want people building great memories around all of our places.”
Words Jesse Wilkinson
Photos John Fearnall